Chile: Surreal landscapes of Atacama

As I’m reeling from the US election outcome, let me focus on something equally surreal but far more pleasant. After visiting Santiago and Maipo valley, on 29th October our Chile Flash Pack tour flew to Calama, a mining town in the north of the country. The mountainous views from the plane and upon landing were stunning. We had landed dry desert canyon country!

After a scenic drive, we arrived at Cumbres San Pedro de Atacama, a hotel with a beautiful boutique Safari lodge feel to it. The lobby smelt floral and our en suites had both indoor and outdoor showers! Over the next three days, we saw a variety spectacular landscapes.

Valle de Luna (moon valley)

I am awestruck by the intensity of the desert and the lunar style rock formations. The light hits the fine sand dunes in a way that makes you want to roll down them! The colour palette is all yellows, oranges and mustards against a deep blue sky. Some of the rock formations that are meant to look like things like a T-rex, angel, pig (this one really does for me!) and a woman praying. We climb up a high ridge for a better view.

We also enjoy a “blink-and-you’ll-miss-it” cycle ride through the desert. Thankfully I did not bother bringing my padded cycling shorts… I just adjust my seat correctly by the time we need to move on to catch the sunset from an ideal vantage point! But it is worth it. We have red wine, cheese and fresh fruit as we watch the sunset turn the mountains pink and orange and the clouds blood red. The drinks are a nice touch and reminds me of the incredible safari I was lucky enough to go on 2 years ago in the Masai Mara. Thanks to the social media expert in our group, Violette, we have numerous solo and group boomerangs. If you don’t know what I’m talking about, get with the times!

Salar de Atacama (salt flats)

We visit the shallow lagoons where brine shrimp flourish. These crustaceans are shorter than 1cm and can withstand highly saline environments, hot temperatures and a low concentration of oxygen. Their eggs can remain in metabolic inactivity and stay dormant for decades in the dried up salty surface. Migratory birds like flamingos feed on the brine shrimp which contain a “beta-carotene” pigment that provides the birds with their pink colour. The lakes are blue, red and green and the flamingos are not what I expected. They are not the cartoon pink flamingos I have seen at the zoo, they do not stand with one leg up (too busy eating to get more pink?), and some of them fly above us.

 

Altiplanico lagoons Miscanti and Menique

On the way to these lakes, we reach a breaktaking 4,500m elevation. I feel out of breath after a brisk walk and do a test jog of about 15 metres just because I want to understand how it feels (ahead of trekking in Peru in a couple of weeks.) Needless to say, I am tired after a few seconds of jogging (OK maybe it is not THAT far off my sea level fitness level!) The lakes are a deep blue and surrounded by mustard mountains and plains of yellow shrubs.

San Pedro de Atacama

Our hotel is a short drive from this small tourist town full of cute but expensive shops (I get a much needed coin purse!) and restaurants. We dine at La Casona, which offers hearty food and free pisco sours. Apologies to our stern guide Michelangelo who warned us we should not eat heavy meals or drink much in these high altitudes!

Tatio Geysers

The geothermal fields with geysers erupting are best viewed at sunset when it is very cold…. -14C when we visited (yes minus!) and 5am departure (yes 5!) That way you can see the full force of the steam. Thankfully we decide to avoid using the hot springs… I would have had to live there rather than risk getting back out into -14C air!  We are cautious as we have to sign a waiver form promising not to touch the geysers (people have lost hands we hear!)

More scenic lakes and canyons…

Thankfully we move to warmer climates for our breakfast. Hot chocolate never tasted so good and as the sun starts to shine, I start to get the feeling back in my fingers! More stunning view, more flamingos and lots of llamas.

The pool and spa

The afternoon of our last day in Atacama is a relaxed one and what a contrast! After the 5am start to the freezing cold mountains to see geysers, we spend the afternoon lazing by the pool in the hot sun. We get virgin mojitos… so refreshing and in keeping with our guide’s no-drinking advice. All of the ladies in our group also get massages. Finally, I have a delicious and nutritious dinner of grilled salmon and mushroom quinoa… my body is calling out for something nutritious. To think we were so so cold this morning!

Local artisans

One of our stops was in a small town where we see a small church and a “special lady” who uses a traditional loom. She has a llama and sheep in her back yard and outside we see a Flintstones style rusty car!

What an incredible 3 days. I leave feeling refreshed and happy!