The gaucho (cowboy) is an iconic image in Argentina so of course I wanted to visit an estancia (ranch) whilst I was there. I was not sure whether to stay at one for a night or do a day trip with my mum. We opted for the latter and it was ideal for us because we got a real estancia experience in a very small group (of 3 people!) whilst enjoying an extended stay in our Buenos Aires hotel.
The trip ran from 8.30m to 6pm including the drive to and from BA of roughly 1.5 hours. On our way out of town, our guide pointed out the well-developed shanty town not far from the fancy neighbourhood of Recoleta and further out, exclusive gated communities akin to luxury resorts. As we drove through the pampas, we got a lesson about the region!
San Antonio de Areco
Our first stop was a pretty gaucho town with a population of about 20,000. The town’s aim of conserving gaucho skills, traditions and aesthetics was evident throughout:
- traditional silversmith workshops – note that mestizo (mixed Spanish and indigenous) gauchos were seen as outcasts roaming the pampas alone but gained recognition by displaying the silver that they earned for herding cattle
- award-winning leather goods for horses
- old houses and cars
- gaucho bars – one of them had with an old cash register and traditional sink
- traditional chocolate shop
- artistic gaucho-inspired tiles
Our guide wore gaucho shoes, which are basically “Toms” shoes without the branding – the gauchos had them first!
Estancia el Ombu
The ranch that we visited is a working estancia with about 80 horses and 300 cows. The landscape was beautiful and on arrival, we had some red wine and empanadas surrounded by many dogs. In fact, this place seemed to be dog (and h0rse) heaven given the owner is an animal lover and keeps taking in abandoned dogs.
We then went for a horse ride with an award winning gaucho in his 70s who really looked the part. My horse was so attentive and listened to all my commands… or perhaps the gaucho was controlling them all from many metres away.
We had a tour of the grounds including vegable allotment, stables and main building.
The traditional asado (slow cooked barbecue) was delicious with plenty of chimichurri sauce and red wine. No wonder John Tirode of masterchef fame came to this particular estancia to learn how to make chimichurri and empanadas.
After our leisurely late lunch, we enjoyed traditional guitar music and a display of non-violent horse taming (or horse whispering!)
The term gaucho will now first invoke images of this estancia to my mind.. rather than a London restaurant chain.
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