Peru: Rainbow mountain… no horse!

The Vinicunca mountain hike offers stunning views of mineralised stripey rainbow-like hills deep in the Andes.

The facts:

– The hike is approximately 3 hours’ drive from Cuzco. Because we did a day trip we had the joy of a 3.15am pick up from our hotel… that was even before our early hotel breakfast started at 4.30am. Cuzco seems to be an early morning type of place!

– Hiking distance is 15km which did not sound hard to me but the elevation starts at 4300m and reaches 5035m.

– The route is through a green valley with views of snow-capped peaks and passing by herds of alpacas and locals. The impressive Ausgangate mountain (pronounced Aus-ang-atty) towers in the distance.

– You can ride horses guided by locals for all or part of the journey. With the altitude kicking in this is a very popular option.

– Our trip cost 110 soles per person and included an cramped but scenic minibus transfer from and back to Cuzco (thankfully I slept soundly on the bus on the way), guides, entrance fees, a breakfast of tea with jam and bread (as in Sound of Music…. tea a drink with jam and bread!) and a hot lunch with soup, salads, veg and meat that tasted sublime after a 5 hour or so hike.

What did I think of the hike?

The scenery was stunning but the hike was very tough as we got higher up. Having been in Cuzco a day and a half I had acclimatised a bit but was still easily out of breath on the hill climbs. And those of you who know me would know I actually consider uphill walking one of my sporting strengths! Once we reached the top part of the hike, the alitiude really hit me and I felt a little dizzy as well as the usual gasping for breath which I had got used to. Coca sweets helped (locals typically chew coca leaves to help with altitude effects but you can also get it in lozenge form) but I think it was the sugar more than the coca leaves for me. Later on, I found skittles gave me a similar boost!

I really enjoyed seeing the brightly dressed locals going about their work or leading horses up the trail. The horses were beautiful and looked well cared for. Once we were almost at the top, I was struggling so much I reverted to a 30 steps walking then 15 or 20 seconds rest strategy. At this point I gasped “Horse, I’ll take a horse please” only to find I was so close to the top, I had already reached the part where horses could not go! In the end I did the full hike up and down on foot… medal please. Then again, seeing an elderly Peruvian woman running up the hill does make self congratulation awkward.

There was certainly a bit of discomfort on this long trip – a cramped 7 hours on a  bus, the effects of altitude, strong cold winds near the top and arriving back late in Cuzco. Apparently two guys were left up the mountain and didn’t make it back on to any of the minibuses so our guides spent an hour on the way back stopping to “solve” the problem. However, I am so glad I did it. The views was surreal and scenery was something I doubt I will ever encounter elsewhere. I also felt like I got to see more genuine locals in the mountains in contrast to the ladies posing for pictures with babies and llamas around Cuzco.

All other hiking around Cuzco altitude-wise is deemed easy if you use Rainbow mountain as a practice hike… so I have heard. Or did I tell myself that?